I’m writing this trip’s blog on my flight back home because once bitten, twice shy people- we all know what happened with the Sri Lanka trip blog and I will not be making the same mistake again.
Quick back story, I had wanted to take this trip to Jordan last year in December during the UAE national holiday. I remember waking up one night at about 2am and just being like eff it, I’m booking the flight. Only to be on the last step and cross check the dates against my calendar and find that I had a match for the company football team that same Friday I was set to fly out. I ended up tearing my ACL (long story I don’t want to get into- but worry not, it was a slight tear, and I have been consistently going to the gym and doing yoga just fine for the past six months so we’re good).
This trip was yet another solo trip. I had not anticipated it to be, but I booked my flights and purchased my Jordan pass in September then told a few friends so that whoever wanted would join me and that was that- that’s another aspect of me that has evolved. Before I used to tie plans and trips to people. This is not a bad thing, but at some point, you have to get comfortable being alone and doing things alone. It of course started slowly; baby steps as they call it. Went for Let’s Drift hikes alone, went for salsa classes alone, tried samba classes alone, started yoga classes alone, went to eat out alone, little by little, you start getting used to just doing the small things alone and you take those small things and do them in a different country; that is how I’d describe solo travel. Just taking the small things, you normally do alone back home and doing them in a different country 😊
My trip to Jordan was exactly seven days- I used 2.5 PTOs, 1 religious holiday and two public holidays. Yeap, we don’t play when it comes to PTOs.
I used my trustee Wizz air and at 6:30am we were out of Abu Dhabi and on our way to Aqaba. We got to Aqaba at 9am, Jordan time and were off to passport control. When you get to the passport control line, there is one counter for Jordan passes where they will check yours and hand you a VISA waiver document to take to the counter. The VISA on arrival fee is 40JOD. I purchased my Jordan pass for 70JOD, and this gave me access to all the places I visited in Wadi Rum, Petra, Jerash and Amman. I would advise you to get it. Just bear in mind that it’s valid for 2 weeks from when you start using it. I only got to find out about this from someone I met at one of the hostels I stayed at.
What happened after I got my VISA stamped was probably a matter of security, I guess. Immediately my passport was stamped, one police officer took my passport and asked me to follow him. I was taken to an office and questioned on my stay, where I’m from, what I do in Dubai, how long I’ve been in Dubai, my mother’s name, what I studied in university, how long I would be staying in Jordan, all my accommodations in Jordan, when I would be leaving… mind you all of this information was being exchanged via Google translate as the two people did not speak English. So, take note, have Google Translate on you always- I used it a lot for my trip. After being held back for close to thirty minutes, mind you they smoke indoors which was something I’d have to get used to but which I didn’t appreciate ☹. After that, I found an ATM and SIM card place right outside. The ATM charged a service fee of 7.5JOD (Steep, I know! Use the Jordan Kuwait bank, they don’t charge a service fee). My advice is to also get the SIM card at the airport as it only costs 5 JOD. I ended up getting mine for 13.5 in Petra because I found the booth closed by the time I got out. A taxi to my hostel cost me 10 JOD (It could cost up to 12JOD).
After checking into Hakaia Community hostel which I 100% recommend; (it’s so clean and cozy and the breakfast is to die for- All of this for a decent price.), I settled down and got down to work as I had taken only half a day of leave to travel to Jordan. Immediately after my workday, jetlag had me out till 8pm. From talking to other people at the hostel I found out the food is quite expensive in Aqaba so I went and got something to cook from the closest supermarket- food is way cheaper and a lot more diverse in Amman so worry not. From talking to people at the hostel is also where I got the good price of 40 JOD for a half day desert trip plus accommodation and three meals in a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum. I had found one for 65 JOD on the internet for half day tour and one night with meals so that right there was definitely a good deal for me! Another note to add- talk to the people you meet at hostels; ask where you’re unsure, find out about their itineraries and what worked and what they would advise, all that stuff, it comes in quite handy.
Next day at 9:30, Halu(she told me of the great deal in Wadi Rum) and I shared a taxi to Wadi Rum (this ended up costing us 12 JOD each. You can get a local bus to Wadi Rum for 3 JOD, but we were traveling on a Friday, and the local buses don’t operate on that day- just another thing to take note of when planning your trip). Our guide Mohammed met us at the Wadi Rum village and took us to the camp. Breathtaking doesn’t begin to explain the accommodation (inserted pictures below).
We were welcomed with some tea and went to our tents to freshen up before lunch. Also note that there is no internet connection in the desert, and you’ll get it at random points during your tour. We stayed two nights here and my crossword book has never seen such progress; my journaling too 😊. Be aware that the temperatures at night are as cold as 4 degrees so please pack warm. Even during the day, it was quite cold, and this was for the entire country and not just in Wadi Rum. In the evening, we sat around a cozy little fireplace and drank tea as we caught up on our days- this was magical.
Sunday morning, we were out of the camp and dropped off at the village where we got a bus for 10JOD to Petra. We tried asking for a local bus for this but didn’t quite get any conclusive information. We got to Petra and checked into Petra Cabin hostel- yet another recommendation we received from another traveler in Wadi Rum and which I 100% recommend as it’s located a mere 5-minute walk from Petra city.
Most hostels are located in Wadi Musa which is about 3km from the city and with how steep the roads are, you would need a taxi to get there. After checking in, I went down to town to get a sim card first then go out exploring. This is where I met Anwar. My plan was to walk but he said he was headed to town and would take me; I entered after we agreed I only had 1JOD to pay also since it was a ten-minute walk left. He took me to a SIM card shop, waited for me to get a SIM card and dropped me off at the gate of Petra city. When I asked him how much I owed him, he said seeing me smile was all the payment he needed. Why haven’t people told me that I’ve been walking around with a currency in the form of my smile!! Haha- jokes aside, this was truly a kind gesture and, in my head, I was screaming stranger danger, but he truly was just a genuinely kind person. Something I got used to, was people constantly asking me where I’m from; whether by the roadside, in the shops, in the bus… all were very kind and respectful though which I appreciated- this was the norm everywhere in Jordan I went. Safety and respect were a constant.
I got to Petra city armed with the determination to see the whole place in five hours- which I did by the way but which I wouldn’t advise if you can help it because 29,000 steps and 127 flights later, my calves are still a little sore. In Petra city, right from the entrance, you will find guides offering you a free horse ride, kindly note it’s not free as you would need to pay the guide. I went up the seven high places and the got a view of the whole city which was breathtaking. The Monastery is located all the way at the end, and I ended up going on here a little later. This is a lot of stairs, and you will find guides with donkeys going up and charging 10-15 JOD. They are doable but going up on a donkey is also an option. Peep a few shots I got at the top: totally worth it! I got out of Petra city at 6:30pm, exhausted and longing for a long shower and a nice home cooked meal which I got at the hostel.
Next morning, I woke up and went to the local bus stop to catch a bus to Amman. This was my first run in with the local transport here which is not the best and most reliable as the buses don’t leave till, they are full or somewhat full. Two hours later, we left Petra for Amman. I ended up paying 7JOD after bargaining from 10 JOD. In Jordan, bargain always as they always give you the tourist price to begin with. I got to my hostel in Amman at about 4pm and chose to wind down and gear up for the next day.
Tuesday morning, I woke up with a mission to go to both Jerash and Dead Sea by local transport. On waiting for two hours for the Jerash bus to leave the station, I saw my plan slowly start to crumble. Pro tip, to get from Downtown to North Amman bus station, I got a shared taxi and paid 0.55 JOD. For the life of me I don’t know where this was exactly in downtown, but it was a mere ten or so minutes’ walk from the Cabin hostel- ask around, I’m sure a local will know 😊.
After two hours in Jerash which in my opinion was more than enough, I got a shared car for 2 JOD which I thought was taking me to Amman only to drop me in a town 20 minutes from Jerash to catch a bus to Amman. There began my struggle because only one shop keeper I found spoke English and he directed me half the journey, after that, a few guys I met directed me via Google translate and finally a third group consisting of a vendor on the street, a lady he stopped who knew English and another kind stranger who saw our confusion, stopped and showed me the way. God bless all their souls because the 2pm sun, coupled with hunger and exhaustion and being in a new country where you don’t speak the local language will have you almost crying for your mommy. I got a bus here for 0.55 JOD to North Amman bus station which I got to at 4pm- public transport to Dead Sea was definitely out of the picture. I negotiated with a taxi driver (through his friend who he called because he couldn’t speak English) to 40JOD to take me to Dead Sea, wait for me and take me back to my hostel. Steep I know; and for a moment I almost just threw in the towel and went back to my hostel, but I relented because I was in Jordan already, might as well go and see the Dead Sea.
We got there at about 5:30 pm and I stayed an hour stepping into the water and washing my face (carefully avoiding my eyes because that water is so damn salty) and just taking in the breathtaking view. As we were getting closer and going below sea level, my ears got a little blocked and I got a mild headache- just a heads up.
That in a nutshell was my short solo trip to Jordan. In Amman, make sure to get some Kunafa from Habbib; their Kunafa and honestly their sweets in general are to die for. One of the nights I went there I had to queue up for Kunafa, but again, very much worth it. To Aqaba from Amman, I booked the Jett bus online for 10JD. They had three buses: 8am, 12pm and 3pm. The journey takes roughly 4 and ½ hours. I would definitely recommend Jett bus. They are so comfortable and on time and people don’t smoke inside which you will appreciate a lot in Jordan.
Thank you for coming with me on what I promised would be a short recap of my trip (and clearly wasn’t) to Jordan. Till next time my fellow travel enthusiasts 😊